Agalychnis Callidryas breeing guide
Introduction
This guide has been written based on my experiences with breeding A.Callidryas. This guide will cover all aspects from getting the frogs ready (cycling) to raising the froglets.
Cycling
Ideally you should aim to have a male to female ratio of 2:1, even
ratios are not completely ineffective but the tendency of the male frogs
to be indiscriminate about their partners means that a 2:1 ratio will
guarantee all of the female frogs will mate within a matter of days of
being introduced into the rain chamber.
In order to encourage competition among the males, groups of five or
more males are a good idea. Initially the male frogs should be separated from the females, once this
is done conditioning can begin.
Initially provide cooler temperatures
for approximately six to eight weeks. The enclosure should be sprayed
once a day for the duration of the initial period of cool temperature. After this period, both temperature and feeding frequency should be
increased, along with misting which should take place three times a day.
You will be able to observe weight increase in the females after
approximately two weeks in these conditions, continue this process until
the females are visibly heavy with eggs. The males should be introduced to the rain chamber a few nights before
the introduction of the females, and require little or no conditioning.
ratios are not completely ineffective but the tendency of the male frogs
to be indiscriminate about their partners means that a 2:1 ratio will
guarantee all of the female frogs will mate within a matter of days of
being introduced into the rain chamber.
In order to encourage competition among the males, groups of five or
more males are a good idea. Initially the male frogs should be separated from the females, once this
is done conditioning can begin.
Initially provide cooler temperatures
for approximately six to eight weeks. The enclosure should be sprayed
once a day for the duration of the initial period of cool temperature. After this period, both temperature and feeding frequency should be
increased, along with misting which should take place three times a day.
You will be able to observe weight increase in the females after
approximately two weeks in these conditions, continue this process until
the females are visibly heavy with eggs. The males should be introduced to the rain chamber a few nights before
the introduction of the females, and require little or no conditioning.
Rain chamber
The rain chamber needs to be constructed of an arboreal, water tight vivarium. A slopped layer of gravel on the bottom with some decor to allow easy escape from the water is vital. Large leaved plants should be introduced to provide egg laying sites. Water should be 3 inches at its deepest, kept clean with daily removal of waste and constant filtration. To create the rain coil some pipe around the top of the viv (inside) and drill small holes randomly around the coil. This should then be attached to the outlet of the external filter. The inlet of the filter should be run down the side into the water.
The rain should cycle on these times.
The rain should cycle on these times.
ON
3.30pm 5.45pm 7.30pm 11.00pm 1.00am 3.45am |
OFF
4.30pm 6.00pm 8.30pm 12.00am 1.15am 4.00am |
Once the water is running and the rain is suitable (not to hard) you are ready to move onto the lights. The timing of the lights is vital. For best results use a small 2% U.V tube for 12 hours a day. Lights should be on at 6am and off at 6pm.
Once the rain chamber has been tested and you are happy it dose not leak the frogs can then be introduced. Cary on feeding them as normal, but be sure to remove any dead inverts or body waste.
Once the rain chamber has been tested and you are happy it dose not leak the frogs can then be introduced. Cary on feeding them as normal, but be sure to remove any dead inverts or body waste.
Clutch care
Once the frogs have been in amplexus for a few nights, clutches of eggs will appear in the viv, usually four per female, however this may can vary. If the eggs have been laid on the leaves the job is quiet simple, if they are on the glass it is a bit more tricky.
If the eggs are on the leaves carefully cut the leaf free and suspend it over the tadpole tank. There are multiple ways of doing this, one is to cable tie them to a bar placed across the top of the tadpole tank. The second way is to lay them on a piece of clean guttering which is slopped into the water. The leafs should be held on the guttering with clothes pegs as it is vital they do not slip into the water.
If the eggs were laid on the glass the same methods are used except you have to put the clutches on to leaves manually. The best way to do this is buy using a credit or bank card and carefully slipping the card between the glass and the back of the clutch. Once the eggs are removed place them on the leaves and give them some time to gel before lifting them up.
If the eggs are on the leaves carefully cut the leaf free and suspend it over the tadpole tank. There are multiple ways of doing this, one is to cable tie them to a bar placed across the top of the tadpole tank. The second way is to lay them on a piece of clean guttering which is slopped into the water. The leafs should be held on the guttering with clothes pegs as it is vital they do not slip into the water.
If the eggs were laid on the glass the same methods are used except you have to put the clutches on to leaves manually. The best way to do this is buy using a credit or bank card and carefully slipping the card between the glass and the back of the clutch. Once the eggs are removed place them on the leaves and give them some time to gel before lifting them up.
Once the clutches are in place it is important they are kept humid, But must be provided with good ventilation. The best way to achieve this is by misting the clutches once per day with de-chlorinated water and keeping the top covered with a towel or plastic sheeting.
After 3-4 days the tadpoles will start to drop.
After 3-4 days the tadpoles will start to drop.
Tadploe tank
A 25 liter tank will house a maximum of 40 tadpoles. Multiple tanks should be used, ideally one for each clutch. The tank needs to have an aquatic heater and an internal filter, however a source of U.V light can have very positive effects. If U.V is to be used a 2% or 5% tube is fine.
The water needs to be heated to 22-24 degrees and needs to be de-chlorinated.
Every other day a 25% water change needs to be carried out. It is important that the water being added is pre heated to that of the tank and is also de-chlorinated.
The water needs to be heated to 22-24 degrees and needs to be de-chlorinated.
Every other day a 25% water change needs to be carried out. It is important that the water being added is pre heated to that of the tank and is also de-chlorinated.
Tadpole care
At this stage the tadpoles are relatively easy to care for, providing there water is kept clean. They do however require a good diet. Sera micron provides a great source of natural minerals and provides them with an algae replacement which is key to their diet and growth. This used in conjunction with a good quality fish flake will help to keep their diet balanced and provide all the vitamins and minerals they need to grow. Tadpoles should be fed twice a day.
Hind legs will become visible within 4-6 weeks and the fronts will follow on within a further 3-4 weeks. Once both sets of legs are through the tadpoles need to be moved to a metamorphosis tank to carry on the next part of their development.
Hind legs will become visible within 4-6 weeks and the fronts will follow on within a further 3-4 weeks. Once both sets of legs are through the tadpoles need to be moved to a metamorphosis tank to carry on the next part of their development.
metamorphosis tank
The metamorphosis tank needs to be constructed of a 25 liter minimum tank. Gravel should be slopped from one side to the other on a steady incline so that the tadpoles can walk onto land. Plants, logs and stones will also provide escape routes. It is important that the tadpoles can easily leave the water at this stage as they are vulnerable to drowning so plan this tank carefully. The water needs to be around 3-4 inches at the deepest part.
At this stage a U.V source is now not optional, a minimum of a 5% tube must be used to prevent MDB and aid them in their calcium d3 production.
After 24 hours the tadpoles will have started to absorb their tail and they can be moved into the first of the froglet tanks.
At this stage a U.V source is now not optional, a minimum of a 5% tube must be used to prevent MDB and aid them in their calcium d3 production.
After 24 hours the tadpoles will have started to absorb their tail and they can be moved into the first of the froglet tanks.
Stage 1
Stage 2
Froglet tanks
Once the froglets are ready to be moved they go into the first of the froglet tanks. This tank needs to be able to house the froglets comfortably
but does not have to be very big as at this stage they are not very active. The tank needs to have a shallow water dish and some form of substrate to keep the humidity up. The best products to use are either damp paper towels or coco fiber. Froglets should remain in this set up for 5-7 days and need not to be fed at this stage.
After 5-7 days the froglets are ready to be moved for the final time to the second froglet tank. An ideal size to house 30-40 froglets would be an arboreal 12x2x18 and should again have a substrate of paper towels or coco fibre to retain humidity. This tank should also incorporate a shallow water dish.
Both tanks should have good ventilation along with a constant humidity of 75% Temperatures need to be the same as for adult frogs, && in the day dropping to 72 at night.
At this stage it is essential that both tanks have a UV source through means of a UV tube with a reflector over the top. This will not only
prevent MBD but will also help the froglets produce D3.
but does not have to be very big as at this stage they are not very active. The tank needs to have a shallow water dish and some form of substrate to keep the humidity up. The best products to use are either damp paper towels or coco fiber. Froglets should remain in this set up for 5-7 days and need not to be fed at this stage.
After 5-7 days the froglets are ready to be moved for the final time to the second froglet tank. An ideal size to house 30-40 froglets would be an arboreal 12x2x18 and should again have a substrate of paper towels or coco fibre to retain humidity. This tank should also incorporate a shallow water dish.
Both tanks should have good ventilation along with a constant humidity of 75% Temperatures need to be the same as for adult frogs, && in the day dropping to 72 at night.
At this stage it is essential that both tanks have a UV source through means of a UV tube with a reflector over the top. This will not only
prevent MBD but will also help the froglets produce D3.
Froglet care
At this phase of the life cycle A.callidryas are at there most fragile.
Specimens can deteriorate very quickly so time and dedication along with correct husbandry are key.
The tank should be maintained to a high standard, any waste and uneaten food should be removed and temperatures should be carefully monitored. Keeping the humidity up is also essential so that the froglets do not dry out.
Once the newly metamorphosed froglets have been moved into the second froglet set up they do not need feeding for an average of 5-7 days, but can go as long as 10. Food should be offered in small quantities after 5 days giving them the option of when to start. Initial feeding should be comprised solely of fruit flies (Drosophila), crickets should be avoided at this stage as they can nip and stress the froglets. Once the froglets have started to feed they will develop ferocious appetites and will need constant feeding. However It is better to feed small quantities often, rather than irregular large feeds.
Once the froglets start to put on weight they should be cut down into smaller groups and the diet can then be varied. At this stage crickets, fruit flies, fry baits and tropical wood lice can all be offered,. Foods should be well gut-loaded and supplemented with a mix of calcium and vitamins prior to feeding.
Specimens can deteriorate very quickly so time and dedication along with correct husbandry are key.
The tank should be maintained to a high standard, any waste and uneaten food should be removed and temperatures should be carefully monitored. Keeping the humidity up is also essential so that the froglets do not dry out.
Once the newly metamorphosed froglets have been moved into the second froglet set up they do not need feeding for an average of 5-7 days, but can go as long as 10. Food should be offered in small quantities after 5 days giving them the option of when to start. Initial feeding should be comprised solely of fruit flies (Drosophila), crickets should be avoided at this stage as they can nip and stress the froglets. Once the froglets have started to feed they will develop ferocious appetites and will need constant feeding. However It is better to feed small quantities often, rather than irregular large feeds.
Once the froglets start to put on weight they should be cut down into smaller groups and the diet can then be varied. At this stage crickets, fruit flies, fry baits and tropical wood lice can all be offered,. Foods should be well gut-loaded and supplemented with a mix of calcium and vitamins prior to feeding.
Conclusion
With the correct levels of care and dedication breeding A.Callidryas can be fun and interesting.
However it is important to remember that you are creating living creatures that need to be respected and cared for.
Unfortunately it is not uncommon for deformities to be encountered and theses specimens need euthanizing quickly and humanly to prevent any suffering or poor quality of life.
However it is important to remember that you are creating living creatures that need to be respected and cared for.
Unfortunately it is not uncommon for deformities to be encountered and theses specimens need euthanizing quickly and humanly to prevent any suffering or poor quality of life.